Prominent Korean Chefs in America Embrace Farming to Cultivate Their Heritage

Cultivating Culinary Roots: The Shift from Kitchen to Farm

Many celebrated chefs in America are redefining their culinary legacies by retreating to the farm. At First Hand Farm in New York’s Hudson Valley, a collective of revered Korean chefs is embracing agriculture not just as a means of sourcing ingredients but as a way to connect deeper with their heritage and culinary practices. Take chef Chang-ho Shin, for instance. After relocating his Michelin-starred restaurant, Joo Ok, from Korea to New York City in 2022, he discovered a stark challenge: essential Korean ingredients were either inaccessible or of subpar quality. The search for fresh perilla leaves and various vegetables for traditional dishes like namul felt frustratingly futile. Even when he could acquire these ingredients, the inconsistency in quality became a major obstacle to maintaining the standards he’d built his reputation upon. Realizing the need for fresh, reliable produce, Shin established relationships with local Hudson Valley farmers, but he still felt an urge for something more hands-on, something transformative. “I wanted to start a farm here. But that was not something I could do alone,” he recalls. Fortunately, he soon found he wasn't alone in his quest. Shin quickly rallied a group of equally ambitious peers, including Hoyoung Kim from Michelin-starred Jua and Ok Dongsik of Okdongsik. Each of them faced similar struggles with sourcing authentic Korean produce in the U.S. "I could usually buy good meat or fish, but vegetables were different," Kim noted. Potentially good produce was often too hard to find, leading him to consider growing them himself. This camaraderie and shared vision birthed First Hand Farm, a one-acre plot dedicated to cultivating staple Korean crops like perilla leaves, island spinach, and wild garlic. In a nutshell, these chefs aren’t just farming; they're crafting a foundation for future generations of Korean-American cuisine.

The Dream Takes Shape

The farm stands as a manifestation of their collective dream. “This has been on my mind for several years,” said JP Park of Atomix, reflecting on the journey. “What made it possible to move from an idea to something real was the presence of a community.” This isn't just about growing food; it's a response to broader questions of identity and the future of Korean cuisine in a new landscape. Despite its modest size, First Hand Farm is poised to serve multiple purposes. Beyond growing crops, it aspires to be a hub for traditional fermentation and preservation techniques, acknowledging that these processes are vital to the cultural fabric of Korean cooking. "I envision it as a place where we can engage with natural processes—where ingredients are harvested and transformed," Chef Park asserted. On a sunny spring afternoon, Shin and fellow chefs gathered at the farm to make jang, a critical fermented paste that underpins Korean culinary tradition. Ellia Park explaned its significance, stating, “More than a seasoning, it’s a practice shaped by time, environment, and human care." Their collaboration exemplifies how traditional methods can foster community spirit and culinary excellence in an increasingly fragmented food world. Within this new venture lies an inherent exploration of cooking that values the relationship between growing, fermenting, and preparing food. The chefs aim not only to cultivate the land but also to enrich their cultural legacy—one that future generations can savor and sustain. And in doing so, they’re reminding us that food is never just sustenance; it’s a storytelling tool and a way to bridge past and present.

The Future of Korean Cuisine in America

This project's timing aligns perfectly with the increasing global appetite for Korean food and culture. Joshua Lee, Director of First Hand Farm, points out a marked rise in interest in Korean culinary traditions over the last decade. By cultivating Korean ingredients in New York, the endeavor invites a fresh perspective on fusion. JP Park underscores the significance of terroir, emphasizing that locally grown ingredients intertwine with unique environmental characteristics. “Korean culinary philosophy expressed through New York-grown ingredients can create a new identity and experience,” he notes. This isn't just about sourcing; it's about forging a new connection between two distinct culinary worlds.

Education and Hospitality Redefined

More than just a farm, this initiative embodies a deep-seated commitment to education and heritage preservation. JP Park expresses a desire to bridge the gap between nature and cooking, particularly for future chefs who may lack this experiential knowledge in traditional cooking settings. “We want to educate younger cooks about the relationship between ingredients and their origins,” he explains. This approach goes beyond standard culinary training, aiming to foster a profound understanding of food’s journey from soil to plate. Hospitality, too, is redefined through this farm endeavor. Ellia Park articulates how “First Hand” symbolizes both the growing of ingredients by personal effort and the foundational act of hospitality. The project seeks to create a multidimensional space where education, collaboration, and cultural exchange flourish. By reshaping the narrative around where and how hospitality begins, First Hand Farm aspires to offer a model that integrates meaningful food growth with the overarching principles of welcome and community.

Looking Ahead

As the food industry continues to evolve, initiatives like this remind us of the importance of roots—both in the literal and figurative sense. The blend of Korean culinary practices with American gardening can potentially spark a wider culinary renaissance, one that pays tribute to traditions while welcoming innovative expressions. For chefs and food enthusiasts alike, this project presents not only a chance to explore new tastes but also an opportunity to connect deeply with the foundational elements of cooking. As more chefs engage with farms that support their culinary ethos, we may witness a transformative impact on how food, culture, and hospitality coalesce in the modern dining experience.